What does 'Sulfite Free' mean?

To put this on a wine label the BATF must approve the art and wording and requires a copy of an analysis from a certified laboratory showing "none detectable" at the parts per million level

Where does sulfur come from and where does it go?

Sulfur is commonly used in the vineyard to inhibit mildew growth and some is also taken up by the roots and incorporated into the plant structure. When an actively fermenting wine is tested, one finds sulfur present, but after it falls clear or is filtered, there is a marked reduction in sulfur. It seems the sulfur is removed by the yeast which use the sulfur in cell wall building. In fact, as is the case with our wines, the sulfur can register 0 parts per million when done fermenting!

Some points about labeling of Sulfite Free and Organic

Many wine shop owners/employees find themselves put in the uncomfortable position of answering the “What about these sulfites” question from a customer. Here are a few facts you can use to back up your answer.

1) All alcoholic beverage labels must be approved by BATF (bureau of alcohol, tobacco and firearms) and over the last 10 years BATF has gotten pretty ridged about making sure each claim is documented. If it says ‘made from organically grown grapes’ then the org. certificates on the fruit must accompany the label approval application. If it says something other than ‘contains sulfites’, then an analysis from a federally recognized laboratory (only 18 are certified) must be submitted.

2) If the label says ‘sulfite free’ then an analysis showing ‘none detectable’ at the parts per million (ppm) level must be submitted for each lot or vintage of wine. There are probably some present in the parts per billion range, but this is too low to measure accurately.

3) If it says nothing, then it must be under 10 ppm, but most producers see low sulfites as a positive selling point and will usually say ‘contains naturally occurring sulfites, no sulfites were added.’

4) The United States is the only country in the world which requires sulfite labeling and thus is the only country where enough consumers are concerned. You can assume virtually all foreign wines have sulfites added during production.

The next question asked is ‘why add sulfites’?

Sulfites are used for two reasons, the first is anti-oxidation. When you cut an apple and leave it out, it turns brown within an hour. This is due to exposure to oxygen and the same thing will happen to grape juice and wine. While we could live with the color change, the more delicate fruit flavors are also changed by oxidation and sulfites step in to grab the oxygen first and save the fruit characters.

The second reason for sulfite use is anti-microbial. Sulfites inhibit (they don’t kill) the growth of many yeasts and bacteria. While some yeast and bacteria are instrumental to the production of wine, some have other, less pleasant results and are to be avoided.

Both the oxygen and microbe related problems can be avoided with modern sanitation and equipment, coupled with some experience and technique. Skeptical winemakers will ask me what I use instead of sulfites and never seem satisfied that good wines can be made without chemical intervention.

‘How long do they last’ is always in the comprehensive discussion. I have red wines which are still in good condition after 10 years in bottle. These were ’big’ wines with good acidity (low pH) and the tannin and alcohol to back them when they were young. Lighter red wines are usually tiring after a few years and most white wines made without sulfites last only a matter of months.

If you run a wine department, white wines are the ’fresh produce’ section of your set. Examine them often for color change, darker gold and brown are bad. If you can’t see through the glass then taste them quarterly. Lack of fruit aroma is the first sign of a fading white. The next sign is a nutty aroma and a cardboard taste in the finish. Blush wines (white zin etc.) will change color from pink hues to a more orange-brown, gasoline color.

In all fairness to the wine producer and consumer, don’t stock so many of these that you are aging cases past perfection. At the first doubt of a wines lifespan, move it to the bargain basket and order in fresh replacements.

At the 2001 El Dorado County Fair, over a dozen organically grown wines won awards in open competition with conventional wines. Over half of these were ‘no sulfite added’ and ‘sulfite free’ wines. Continued support from the marketing side for these wines will encourage more producers to join the organic parade and we will all be healthier for it.